Alpine Climbing Cheat Sheet

The key takeaways for moving from sport climbing onto the wall – anchor building, time management and the basics for your first multi-pitch route.

Gear for multi-pitch

Item	Priority	Tip
Rope type	High	Half ropes are the alpine workhorse – less rope drag and double the rappel length.
Helmet	High	Mandatory, not optional – the head is one of the most common injury sites on alpine rock.
Anchor gear	Medium	Sling, cordelette and HMS carabiner kept in one spot you can find blind.

How one pitch works

The leader climbs: Climbs ahead, clips protection, and continues to the next belay stance.
Build the anchor & call it: Build the anchor, tie in tight and call “off belay” clearly.
Belay the second: Device in guide mode, call “climb on”, the second cleans the protection on the way up.
Swap over at the stance: Swap leads: take over directly. Block leading: hand over the sorted rack – then the next pitch.

The 3 golden technique rules

Factor 1: Save strength for the long haul

Concept: A multi-pitch route takes hours, not minutes – pump your arms out on pitch one and you'll have nothing left at the top. Tip: The rule still holds on rock: straight arms, hips in, weight on your feet – over hundreds of metres, every saved gram counts.

Factor 2: Always stay tied in

Concept: The most dangerous moments are the stance changeovers – a single unclipped moment is enough. Tip: Clip into your self-belay before you prepare anything; when rappelling, knot the rope ends and back it up with a prusik.

Factor 3: Time budget beats summit fever

Concept: The most common alpine problem isn't a hard move – it's getting lost or exhausted because of time pressure. Tip: Budget generously for approach, climbing time and descent, set a fixed turnaround time – and stick to it no matter what.

Placing mobile protection

Situation	Rule
Constricting crack	Place a nut – it holds through shape, not spring tension.
Parallel-sided crack	Place a cam – lobes evenly loaded, size fills the crack snugly.
Check the placement	Set it in the fall direction and give it a firm tug – if it shifts, reset it.

Managing objective hazards

Rockfall & weather risk: Avoid gullies and scree bands, wear a helmet, check the mountain forecast for storms and start early.
Agree on calls beforehand: Agree on a handful of fixed calls with your partner's name – otherwise the wrong party responds.
Practise belaying the second: The device blocks by itself but isn't an autopilot – practise releasing it under load on the ground.
Debrief honestly: After every route, reflect briefly on what flowed and where it got tight – that's what drives the most progress.

Pro tip: Before the route, write down a time budget: approach, every pitch, descent, turnaround time. The clock decides your safety – not your summit drive.