The key takeaways for beginners – the light seat, reading distances and the three jump phases behind every fence.
| Item | Priority | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Jumping saddle | High | Short flap with knee rolls actively supports the light seat – a dressage saddle isn't built for that. |
| Breastplate | Medium | Stops the saddle sliding back on take-off – noticeable especially over bigger fences. |
| Boots | Medium | Fetlock boots protect the horse's legs from pole contact when the jump is ridden cleanly. |
| Jumping whip | Low | Shorter than a dressage whip, meant for occasional, targeted cues from the light seat. |
Concept: Riding a fence in the flat seat sits on the horse's back through the bascule and disrupts the arc. Tip: Shift weight from the seat bones to the thighs, knee and heel down – shorten your stirrups from the flat-seat length to do it.
Concept: Both classic timing faults over a fence come from a lack of balance in the two-point seat, not from courage or hesitation. Tip: Practise the long crest release: hand a third to halfway up the neck – it forgives balance errors over a fence the most.
Concept: During the flight phase your horse follows a fixed trajectory – rein aids can only disturb it now, never correct it. Tip: Set your seat and eyes before take-off: walk the course, count double-steps (≈1 metre), know distances beforehand instead of correcting mid-air.
| Item | In short |
|---|---|
| 4-fault rule | A dropped rail or first refusal each cost 4 points – a second refusal means elimination. |
| Time faults | Count only after jumping faults – 0 faults on a slow time beats any fast round with faults. |
| Class ladder | E (85 cm) to S (140–160 cm) – every step a realistic increment, never a leap. |
Pro tip: Walk every course on foot and count the canter strides between fences out loud (two steps ≈ 1 metre). Know the distance beforehand and you won't need to correct anything mid-air – timing beats courage.