The key takeaways for beginners – moving from skidding to real carving, choosing the right ski radius and understanding the four racing disciplines.
| Ski type | Radius | Right for you if… |
|---|---|---|
| Slalom ski | 10–13 m | Tight and agile – for short, fast turns in racing. |
| Giant slalom ski | 16–18 m | Long and stable – holds speed across several gates. |
| All-round ski | under 15 m | Best starting point – covers most recreational runs. |
Concept: High speed and strong edging pull you into the backseat more easily than a calm snow plough does – and that's exactly where it costs you the most control. Tip: Press your shins actively against the boot tongue, especially exiting a turn at speed – a centred position beats edge angle.
Concept: Keep your weight centred on both skis and you're not steering either one properly – the outside ski has to carry the turn. Tip: Deliberately load the ski on the outside of the turn and let the inside ski ride along relaxed instead of actively steering it.
Concept: Half-hearted edging makes you skid – modern shaped skis only pull their own arc when the edge commits fully. Tip: Set the edge early and decisively in the turn and hold it through to a flowing edge change – don't release it at the end of the turn.
| Discipline | Focus | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Slalom | Technique | Densest gate sequence (up to 75 gates), 140–220 m of vertical – the slowest, most technical discipline. |
| Giant slalom | Speed+technique | More gates over a longer course – carrying speed across several gates. |
| Super-G | One run | No training runs, only an inspection – then just the single run counts. |
| Downhill | Speed | Biggest vertical drop (up to 1,100 m), speeds close to 100 km/h. |
Pro tip: Film your turns once a month from behind and watch for just one thing: does the edge hold until the next edge change? Carving isn't a feeling that eventually arrives – it's a decision you make fresh in every single turn.