Whether it is power endurance on a boulder or poor weather at the crag: the pros show how mental composure, tactics, and patience make hard moves possible.
When failing on a route at the climbing gym or on real rock, climbers are quick to blame a lack of maximum strength. Yet recent reports on hard sends worldwide make one thing clear: when climbers operate at their absolute limit, entirely different factors determine success or failure. It comes down to meticulous attention to detail, accepting setbacks, and adopting the right tactical approach to conditions and your own body.
Projecting hard lines requires above all the willingness to break down routes into tiny sections and wait for the right moment. According to Gripped, Jorge Díaz-Rullo described during his ascent of Hazel Grace Sit (V15/16) at Gotthardpass how heavily shifting conditions affected the process. Although he was nearly at the top by the third day, worse conditions on subsequent days meant he could barely hold the grips, until everything finally came together. Gio Placci also climbed four hard 9a routes in four days after the competition summer while waiting for better conditions on his main project.
Just how much time some lines demand is also shown by Drew Ruana, who according to Gripped invested over 100 sessions into the project Megatron (V17), analysing the line move by move. In contrast, Hamish McArthur needed five sessions for his repeat of the same boulder, highlighting the importance of mental preparation and mindfulness. Fanny Gibert, on the other hand, returned to old projects like Baboon Master and Scarred for Life after several years and injury breaks. After struggling with heat and movement sequences during the summer, she found the right solution over the course of several targeted trips.
Even when a plan is in place, things rarely go smoothly on the rock. Jakob Schubert described his ascent of Mount Doom (V17) after eight days as an extreme battle, according to Gripped—not only due to an injury during the process, but also because a key hold had previously broken, adding an extra crux section to the route. On La Cadre Original in Céüse, broken holds have also noticeably altered the character and grade of the route over the years, as reports surrounding Manon Hily's send demonstrate.
Sometimes, the simple ability to react spontaneously to mistakes saves an attempt. Alex Megos reported during his repeat of Rapture of the Deep (9a+) in Australia that his foot slipped right before the big dyno. Instead of giving up, he held on to the wall with one arm, reset his feet, and went for the dyno anyway. Megos emphasised that while you must work on your weaknesses, it is decisive in key moments to rely fully on your strengths.
Even if you do not climb in the top grades, the pros' approach can be directly transferred to your climbing and bouldering in the gym or outdoors:
Your takeaway: Success at your limit rarely happens on the first try; it comes from patiently working out individual moves, waiting for good conditions, and maintaining full focus in the decisive moment.
This article was generated automatically with AI from the sources listed above and has not been editorially reviewed.