Riding a Switchback on a Mountain Bike: Slow, Wide, Eyes to the Exit

Ride downhill switchbacks: slow down, take a wide line, look to the apex and exit, keep the front wheel loaded. With milestones, mistakes and clear limits.

Sport: MTB · Level: Intermediate

Introduction

The honest answer: you ride a downhill switchback at very low speed, on the widest possible line in the outer part of the trail, with your eyes first at the apex and then at the exit, and with the front wheel loaded [1]. You often do not need the acrobatic rear-wheel pivot for this. A co-author of the Alpine Club mountain bike curriculum explicitly describes that many switchbacks can be ridden without pivoting [1].

How hard is it really? The Single Trail Scale, a widespread standard for trail difficulty, expects no hairpins on S1 trails, narrow curves on S2, hairpins on S3 and from S4 tight hairpins where shifting front and rear wheels becomes necessary [2]. So the entry point is S2 to S3, not S4.

Switchbacks are safety-critical because there is often falling terrain around them. In a video analysis of 534 mountain bike crashes 12.2 percent were thrown sideways off the line, 55.2 percent went over the handlebar [6]. And with a controlled dismount the chance of a head impact fell by about 89 percent (odds ratio 0.11) [5].

In a switchback you do not win through courage but through slow rolling and the right gaze.

What you need

Step by step

1. Look at the turn and reduce speed

Check the ground and the fall zone on foot. If hikers or other bikers are in the turn, the passage is off limits [1]. Brake beforehand to a very low speed and roll in in the neutral position: standing on level cranks, joints bent, fingers on the brake, eyes ahead [1]. Smoothly, with an "inner ABS" in your fingertips, so no tyre locks.

Milestone: you reach the turn-in point at walking pace without a wheel locking.

2. Choose a wide line outside

Where the ground allows it, choose the widest possible line for the front wheel in the outer part of the trail. This keeps the steering angle small and you can roll without overtaxing your balance [1]. The rule "approach wide and pull inside" does not always hold: the ground helps decide the line.

Milestone: the front wheel draws a wide arc, the rear wheel follows tighter.

3. Eyes to the apex, then to the exit

"The bike goes where the eyes look." Look first at the apex of the turn and shortly after at its end. When your head turns to the end of the turn, shoulder axis and trunk follow [1].

Milestone: in the video you see your head follow the turn before the bike does.

4. Load the front wheel, cranks at 2 to 3 o'clock

Keep your centre of mass central over the bike. The front tyre is responsible for steering: do not sit too far back, the outside hand pushes the handlebar with a bent elbow through the turn. The cranks sit around the 2 to 3 o'clock position. That gives you reserve if you snag, because a short pedal stroke can prevent a fall [1].

Milestone: you roll the turn without putting a foot down, the front wheel stays in line.

5. Exit and release the brake

As soon as steering angle and trail allow, release the brake slightly. The bike gains momentum and stability [1]. Do not go too slowly: a rolling wheel is easier to balance than a stationary one, and small bumps would otherwise throw you off balance [1].

Milestone: you roll the turn evenly without putting a foot down, even with a small root.

Common mistakes

Safety notes

Switchbacks are safety-critical, especially in terrain with fall danger. Head and upper extremity are most often affected in mountain biking [7]. In a meta-analysis of cyclists a helmet reduced serious head injuries by about 60 percent [8], a guide value for cycling in general.

While you practise, ride only turns where you cannot fall far beside the trail. Everything else you walk. Dismounting is technique: in a video analysis, dismounting during a descent was linked to an 89 percent lower chance of a head impact [5]. The Single Trail Scale points out that it does not reflect danger, wetness and speed [2]. Wetness and leaves make every turn harder. This guide explains and motivates; it does not replace supervised training.

Pro tip

Do the cone switchback on a meadow: two cones as the inside point, a gate as the exit. Ride it 20 times looking at the exit gate, not the cones. If you look at the gate, your head turns by itself. Then move one cone tighter.

A detail almost nobody knows: the author of the coaching article describes four building blocks that carry every turn: deceleration, weight distribution, steering and acceleration [1]. When a turn fails, ask yourself which of the four is missing. Usually it is the deceleration, not the steering (rule of thumb from practice).

FAQ

How do I ride a switchback on a mountain bike?

Reduce speed beforehand, approach on a wide line outside, eyes first to the apex, then to the exit, keep the front wheel loaded, release the brake on the exit [1]. You often do not need the acrobatic rear-wheel pivot for this.

Do I need to be able to pivot the rear wheel?

Not for every turn. Many switchbacks can be ridden without pivoting if you approach them correctly [1]. Only on very tight turns from S4 does shifting front and rear wheels become necessary [2].

Should I ride the outside or inside of a switchback?

Usually wide outside, because the steering angle then stays small [1]. The rule does not always hold, as the ground helps decide the line. Read the ground and choose the grippiest line.

Why do I always put a foot down in switchbacks?

Usually you are too slow. A rolling wheel is easier to balance than a stationary one [1]. Keep rolling and practise first on a meadow with cones. If you put a foot down, dismount in a controlled way instead of fighting.

Key Takeaways

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