Cycling: The Cycling ABC – All Key Terms Explained
Cadence, cassette, cross-chaining: the Cycling ABC explains every key term in plain, friendly language before you head out on your first ride.
Sport: Radfahren · Level: Beginner
Introduction
"Shift ahead of time, or you'll get a chain suck at the worst moment" – if that sentence sounds like a foreign language, you're not alone. Cycling has its own small vocabulary that almost every DOMISPORTS guide assumes you already know. This glossary catches you up in plain, friendly language with everyday comparisons instead of textbook definitions – afterward, every other cycling guide will click instantly.
Gear: What Actually Matters On You and On the Bike
Helmet (Helm): your one true non-negotiable. It won't prevent a crash, but it massively lowers the risk of serious head injury if one happens – like an airbag that doesn't stop the accident but softens the consequences.
Lights (Beleuchtung): white up front, red at the back – mandatory once dusk hits. Not just so you can see, but so others see you in time.
Reflectors (Reflektoren): the small orange or silver strips on pedals, spokes, and tires that flash in headlight beams like a warning sign – extra visibility that needs no battery.
Padded cycling shorts (Radhose mit Sitzpolster): shorts with a built-in pad worn directly against skin, no underwear underneath. Past about thirty minutes in the saddle, this is the difference between comfort and chafing.
Puncture repair kit (Pannenset): your mobile workshop – spare tube, tire levers, mini pump or CO2 cartridge, and a multitool. Without it, a flat means walking instead of riding home.
Saddle bag (Satteltasche): the small pouch under the saddle that keeps your repair kit and small essentials always within reach instead of buried in a backpack.
Clipless pedals (Klickpedale): pedals your shoe locks into via a special cleat, similar to a ski binding click. Practice clicking in and out standing still against a wall first, or your early attempts will end in a slow, awkward tip-over.
Bell (Klingel): mandatory in many countries and genuinely useful daily – your acoustic "heads up, coming through" for pedestrians and other riders.
Lock (Schloss): decides whether your bike is still there tomorrow. This is one spot where spending a bit more than the bike itself is worth it.
Bottle cage (Flaschenhalter): the frame-mounted holder for your water bottle, so you drink on the go instead of getting thirsty and forgetting.
Bike computer (Radcomputer): the small display on your handlebar showing speed, distance, and often cadence – your real-time training log.
E-bike / pedelec: a bicycle with an electric motor that assists your pedaling, but only while you're actually pedaling. Not "cheating" – it's an on-ramp for hills, distance, or low base fitness.
Bike & Drivetrain: The Parts Every Guide Assumes You Know
Cassette (Kassette): the stack of sprockets on the rear wheel, ranging from small to large – this is where the chain jumps around when you shift at the back.
Chainring(s) (Kettenblatt/Kettenblätter): the large gears mounted directly on the crank up front. A small chainring means easier pedaling uphill, a large one means more speed on the flat.
Crank (Kurbel): the lever arms that hold the pedals and carry the chainrings – your direct connection between leg and drivetrain.
Rear derailleur (Schaltwerk): the small, moving mechanism at the rear wheel that guides the chain from sprocket to sprocket, controlled by the right shift lever.
Front derailleur (Umwerfer): its counterpart up front, moving the chain between chainrings, controlled by the left shift lever. A shift here means a big jump in gearing.
Sprocket/cog (Ritzel): a single gear of the cassette. "Shifting to a bigger cog" means an easier gear, with less force needed per pedal stroke.
Disc brake / brake rotor (Bremsscheibe/Scheibenbremse): the round metal disc at the hub that gets squeezed by brake pads – just like a car's disc brake, only smaller and lighter.
Brake pads (Bremsbeläge): the replaceable "blocks" that press against the rotor or rim. Once they're under 1.5 millimeters thick, they need replacing.
Drops (Unterlenker): the lower, curved section of a drop handlebar. You grab this on fast descents because it gives you more leverage on the brakes and lowers your center of gravity.
Riding Technique & Body Position: The Words From Every Skills Guide
Cadence (Kadenz/Trittfrequenz): how many times the crank turns per minute. Around 80 to 90 revolutions is considered the economical sweet spot – too low, and your knees pay the price.
Heel method (Fersen-Methode): a simple rule of thumb for setting saddle height: heel on the pedal, leg nearly straight at the lowest point. If your forefoot then lands naturally on the pedal, the height is right.
Line of sight / looking ahead (Blickführung): wherever you look, your bike almost automatically follows. Aim your gaze 10 to 15 meters ahead instead of staring at your front wheel.
Balance-bike method (Laufrad-Prinzip): the proven learning approach of practicing rolling and balance with a lowered saddle before pedaling at all – exactly like a kid's balance bike, just for adults.
Talk test (Talk-Test): your simplest intensity gauge as a beginner. If you can still hold a relaxed conversation while riding, you're in the right, moderate zone.
Cross-chaining (Schräglauf): when the chain runs at an extreme diagonal angle, for example big chainring up front combined with the biggest cog at the back. It wastes energy through friction, causes rubbing noise, and wears out the chain and cassette faster than necessary.
Chain suck (Kettenklemmer): when the chain jumps off and jams between chainring and frame during a hard-load shift – usually the price for shifting under full power instead of easing off for a moment.
Bedding in (Einbremsen): new brake pads or rotors need 20 to 30 moderate brakes from medium speed, without coming to a complete stop, to reach full stopping power – like new shoes that need breaking in.
70/30 rule (70/30-Regel): the rule of thumb for braking: roughly 70% of stopping power should come from the front brake, since weight shifts forward under deceleration, and only about 30% from the rear brake.
Bike fitting (Bikefitting): a professional adjustment of saddle, handlebar, and cranks to your body. For starting out, a basic self-adjustment is usually enough; for stubborn pain, a professional session is worth it.
Pro Tip
Turn the three biggest beginner mistakes into a mental checklist: saddle too low kills your knees, yanking the front brake kills your balance, shifting under full load kills your chain. Avoid these three classics and you're already ahead of most newcomers, technically speaking.
FAQ
What is cadence in cycling?
Cadence, also called pedaling rate, is the number of crank revolutions per minute. A value of 80 to 90 is considered economical: you pedal faster but with less force per revolution, instead of grinding through every stroke in too heavy a gear. Too low a cadence puts unnecessary strain on your knees.
What does cross-chaining mean?
Cross-chaining happens when the chain runs at an extreme diagonal angle – for example, the biggest chainring up front combined with the biggest cog at the back. It wastes energy through friction, creates rubbing noise at the front derailleur, and wears out the chain and cassette faster. In that situation, shift to a smaller chainring instead.
What is the 70/30 rule for braking?
It describes how braking force should be split between front and rear wheel: roughly 70% through the front brake, 30% through the rear. The physics behind it: braking shifts your weight forward, giving the front tire more grip and letting it handle more stopping power without sliding out.
What is bedding in new brake pads for?
New brake pads or rotors need 20 to 30 moderate brakes from medium speed without coming to a full stop. This process roughens the pad surface to its optimal texture. Skip this bedding-in process and your braking stays noticeably weaker, especially when you actually need a hard emergency stop.
What is the difference between a cassette and a chainring?
The cassette sits at the rear of the bike and consists of several sprockets of different sizes. The chainrings sit up front, directly on the crank. You shift the rear for fine-tuning and the front for the big jump: small chainring for climbs, large chainring for speed on the flat.
Key Takeaways
Cassette, chainring, rear derailleur, front derailleur: knowing these four parts means every cycling guide's shifting talk instantly makes sense.
Cadence, looking ahead, and the heel method aren't pro-only tricks – they're the basis for pain-free, safe riding from your very first ride.
The 70/30 braking rule and avoiding cross-chaining protect both you and your bike at the same time, no expensive gear required.