Pin, frame or hybrid binding? Mohair or nylon climbing skins? The key gear decisions for your first ski touring set-up, explained.
Is your piste ski set-up good enough for your first ski tour? Short answer: technically yes, once — but you'll regret it. Touring gear differs fundamentally from piste gear because it has to do two opposite jobs: carry you uphill efficiently and still bring you back down in control. Piste gear only has to do the second one.
The difference is measurable. A classic frame binding weighs over a kilogram, while pure pin bindings (also called low-tech) often weigh just 250 to 500 grams per ski — one concrete example: the Diamir Scout 11 weighs 790 grams, the Dynafit TLT Speed Radical just 370 grams. Sounds like nitpicking, but it isn't: you move that weight with every single step uphill, thousands of times per tour.
There are three basic types: pin bindings (also low-tech), frame bindings and hybrid bindings. Pin bindings are the lightest and most efficient on the climb — their pivot point in ascent mode sits closer to the ball of the foot, which makes your stride more natural and longer. Frame bindings are easier to use and feel more secure, but noticeably heavier. Hybrid bindings try to combine both.
For your first seasons, a hybrid or a solid, well-regarded pin binding is usually the better choice than the lightest race binding on the market. Light helps you on the climb — stability helps you on the descent while you're still finding your feet.
Mohair is the natural hair of the Angora goat — very fine, hollow fibers only 0.03 millimeters in diameter that glide excellently and stay supple even in extreme cold. Nylon, by contrast, is a genuine grip monster: it forgives sloppy technique on steep, icy tracks, but glides noticeably worse — like the skin is braking when it should be gliding. Most tourers therefore run a mix of both (often 70:30 or 65:35) — the best compromise between grip and glide.
The skin has to match your ski's contour and sit slightly narrower than the edge so it doesn't hang over. Too wide and you lose edge grip; too narrow and it slides sideways.
A touring boot needs to be noticeably more flexible in walk mode than an alpine boot — take a few steps in the shop before you buy. More on that in the descent-technique chapter, when we cover skiing with touring boots.
Poorly fitted or badly maintained gear is more than a comfort issue in the mountains. A binding that releases unintentionally on the climb, or a skin that comes loose on a steep slope, can throw you off balance in a tricky spot. Have bindings professionally adjusted and check skins and bindings before every tour — just like your emergency gear.
Get a spare skin glue spray early and test at home how your skin behaves after several tours. Old, worn-out skins lose their stick exactly when it's cold — and a skin that comes loose during the climb is one of the most common reasons tours get cut short.
Technically yes, with a retrofitted touring binding and skins, but piste skis are heavier and wider than dedicated touring skis — every uphill step costs you more energy. For regular touring, dedicated lighter gear is worth it.
Pin bindings are significantly lighter (often 250–500 grams instead of over a kilogram) and more efficient on the climb, but require more technique to step in and out. Frame bindings are easier to use but heavier — a classic beginner trade-off.
A mix skin (usually 70:30 or 65:35 mohair to nylon) is the best all-round compromise between glide and grip for most tourers — pure nylon only if you frequently climb steep, icy terrain.
It depends on use and care — replace them at the latest once glue or hair visibly deteriorate (worse glide, weaker stick). Regular drying and warm storage extends their lifespan considerably.
Ski Touring: Emergency Gear — Transceiver, Probe, Shovel