Falling is part of shortboard surfing. How to wipe out safely: fall flat, protect your head, stay calm and defuse the biggest hazard — your own board.
## Introduction The honest answer first: if you shortboard, you fall — constantly. A wipeout is not a failure but part of the game. What makes the difference is how you fall: controlled and flat instead of headfirst and panicked. Wiping out right is a technique you can learn just like the pop-up.
Why it matters: the most common surfing injuries are skin injuries and cuts — in one study 46 % of all injuries were to the skin, in another 38 % were lacerations and 37 % hit the head. And by far the most common cause, at 38.6 %, is your own board. Not the reef, not a shark — the thing on your leash.
The good news: almost all of it is avoidable. Fall flat, protect your head and stay calm, and in the vast majority of cases you come back up unharmed. Train Smart.
## What You Need - The right mindset: plan for falls, do not fear them — panic is the worst adviser. - Knowledge of your spot: water depth, bottom (sand or reef), shore-break. - A working leash of suitable length — but beware, it also pulls the board back. - Calm breathing — one deliberate breath decides between panic and control. - Practice in the shallows: controlled duck-under on small waves before it gets big.
### 1. Fall flat, not headfirst The most important reflex: when you fall, go under flat — arms and legs spread like a starfish — instead of diving headfirst into the water. In shallow water over a sandbar or reef, a headfirst dive is the biggest risk. Flat means: you spread the impact and stay away from the bottom.
### 2. Away from the board Deliberately fall to the side or backward, away from the board, never onto it and never into its flight path. Your own board is the most common source of injury — the pointed nose and sharp fins come snapping back when the leash pulls. Create distance between you and the board as you fall.
### 3. Protect head and face As soon as you are in the water and surfacing, put your arms protectively over head and face. You never know exactly where your board is, and head injuries are common. This simple reflex — arms up as you come up — prevents most hits from your own board.
### 4. Stay calm and ride out the turbulence Underwater the wave tumbles you — it feels longer than it is. Stay loose, do not fight the washing machine but let yourself roll through and wait until the power eases. A calm body uses less oxygen. Only then do you orient toward the surface.
### 5. Surface under control Coming up, arms protectively in front of your head first, then surface carefully and immediately locate your board. Grab the leash and pull the board toward you under control, rather than letting it snap toward you blindly. Then look out to sea: is the next wave already coming?
## Common Mistakes - Diving headfirst. The biggest risk in the shallows. Fix: always go under flat, spread like a starfish. - Falling onto or toward the board. Fix: deliberately fall sideways away from the board. - Unprotected on surfacing. Fix: arms up first, then the head out. - Fighting the turbulence. That costs strength and air. Fix: stay loose, let it roll you, sit it out.
## Safety Notes The most dangerous place for a wipeout is the shore-break — the waves breaking right on the shallow beach that dump you onto the sand with full force. Shore-break and rip currents are the main causes of injuries in the surf zone. Do not go under headfirst in dumping shore-break and take extra care getting out.
And respect the limits: in waves well above your level the hard wipeouts pile up and exhaustion comes faster. Better to surf a size down and come back up cleanly than to panic underwater at your limit. If you feel lasting dizziness or neck pain after a fall, get out at once and have it checked.
## Pro Tip Deliberately practise the calm surfacing on small waves: let a harmless whitewater wave roll you through a few times on purpose and drill the sequence — stay loose, arms over the head, orient, surface. Once that sequence becomes a habit, it kicks in even when a bigger wave surprises you. Panic grows from unfamiliarity; take away its ground with repetition.
### How do I fall correctly when surfing? Go under flat and spread like a starfish, never headfirst — especially in shallow water over sand or reef. Deliberately fall to the side away from the board and protect head and face with your arms on surfacing. Stay loose underwater, let yourself roll through and only surface once the wave’s power eases.
### What is the biggest hazard in a wipeout? Your own board. At around 38.6 % it is the most common injury mechanism in surfing — more common than the bottom, reef or other surfers. So: fall away from the board, arms over your head on surfacing, and use the leash to pull the board in under control rather than letting it snap back blindly.
### How long do I need to stay underwater? On normal waves only a few seconds — it feels longer than it is. Stay calm, do not fight the turbulence and save oxygen by simply letting yourself roll through. Only once the power eases do you work your way up. Panic and resistance use up the air you need.
### Should I always wear my leash? Yes, it keeps your board with you and stops it hitting others or shooting toward the beach uncontrolled. But be aware: the same leash also pulls the board back to you. After a fall, pull it in under control by the leash and keep your arms protectively over your head on surfacing, because your own board is the most common source of injury.
Rip Currents: Spotting Them and Getting Out Safely