Only one set type is still safe today: with a band shock absorber per EN 958. How to spot good via ferrata gear — and why the old rope brake is taboo.
A via ferrata set is not a fashion question — it is your only lifeline in a fall, and there is exactly one system type you should still buy today: one with a band-type shock absorber, tested to EN 958. Old sets with a plain rope brake are now considered outdated and unsafe — if you get handed one by a friend or from an old rental stock, leave it be.
The reason is simple and a little unsettling: on a via ferrata a fall factor of up to 5 is possible — for comparison, sport climbing with a dynamic rope has a theoretical maximum of factor 2. Fall factor is fall height divided by the available braking distance; a factor of 5 means, in the extreme case, you fall roughly 5 metres freely before anything even starts braking — about like falling from a building's second floor. Without a damper, that jolt would injure your spine and internal organs; the shock absorber is the airbag that prevents exactly that.
The old rope brake works through friction on a metal plate — it can fail through ageing of the brake rope or in wet conditions. The modern band shock absorber tears open seam by seam in a controlled way during a fall and brakes reliably regardless of wet or dry. Buy only sets with a band shock absorber.
Since May 2017, EN 958:2017 applies: sets are tested with fall masses of 40, 80 and 120 kilograms, and the impact force must not exceed 3.5 kN at 40 kg or 6 kN at 120 kg — 6 kN is roughly six times your own body weight yanking on you all at once. That is exactly the limit your set is designed to stay under.
A climbing helmet (EN 12492) is built lighter than a bike helmet and designed for impacts from above, not just sideways falls. Wear it from the first metre of rock, not only "once it gets steep".
Via ferrata gloves protect against frayed cable ends, which occur on older routes, and give you more friction on the cable — that noticeably relieves your palms on long tours. Regular bike gloves are not enough; they lack the reinforced palm area.
Your via ferrata set has an expiry date — manufacturers typically state around 10 years from the production date, regardless of use, because the band material ages. After any triggered fall, even a small one, the shock absorber must be fully replaced — it is a single-use part. Check the seams, carabiner gates and tie-in point on your harness before every tour. Store the set dry and out of direct sunlight — UV light and moisture wear down the band material over the years just as much as actual use, even if the set just hangs in a closet.
Do not buy your set blind online by price alone. Go to a specialist shop and have them show you how the two carabiner arms feel in your hand — some models have automatic gates that are easier to operate with cold or clammy hands. In practice, that matters more than a few grams of weight difference.
Most manufacturers state a maximum lifespan of about 10 years from the manufacturing date, even with rare use, because the band material loses strength over time. After a triggered fall it must be replaced immediately, regardless of age.
Yes, many huts, mountain sports shops and guided tours offer rental sets including a helmet. For beginners that is the cheapest and smartest option before investing in your own set.
The stitched band tears apart section by section in a controlled way, extending the braking distance and reducing the jolt on your body to a tolerable value. Once triggered, the absorber is used up and the set must be replaced.
The hip harness itself is usually compatible, but what matters is the set you clip into it — without a certified via ferrata set with a shock absorber, even the best harness will not protect you adequately in a fall. If in doubt, ask a specialist shop whether your existing harness is suitable for via ferrata use before pairing it with a new set.
Via Ferrata Technique: How to Avoid Burning Arms