Climbing in the USA

5 curated Climbing spots in the USA, each with its own note and source.

Bend

Oregon

Smith Rock sits north of Bend: over 1,500 routes in volcanic welded tuff with basalt columns above the Crooked River, graded 5.7 to 5.14, sport-focused, plus trad lines and multi-pitch. Spring and autumn are the reliable windows; summers pass 37 °C. Walls close from February to early August for nesting raptors.

Sources: Central Oregon Trail Alliance, Mountain Project, SmithRock.com

Moab

Utah

Desert climbing in Wingate sandstone: Indian Creek south of Moab holds over 1,700 mostly single-pitch crack lines, the classics running 5.10− to 5.12−, protected almost entirely on cams. Spring and autumn are the main seasons. After rain the rock can stay wet for several days — do not climb then, or holds rip off.

Sources: Bureau of Land Management, Bureau of Land Management, Mountain Project

Red Rocks

Nevada · Best time: Oct–Apr · All levels

Sandstone west of Las Vegas: Mountain Project lists close to 3,000 climbs, from 3rd class to 5.15d, plus boulders from V0 to V17. Alongside sport routes there are long trad multi-pitches such as the 16-pitch Epinephrine. Main season October to May — never climb after rain, holds rip off wet sandstone.

Sources: Mountain Project, Mountain Project

Yosemite Valley

Kalifornien · Best time: May–Oct · All levels

Granite climbing in Yosemite Valley: El Capitan is a 914-metre monolith of coarse-grained granite carrying more than 70 routes, among them The Nose and the Dawn Wall. Big walls with a night on the wall require a free wilderness permit; the park records over 100 climbing accidents a year.

Sources: Wikipedia, National Park Service, Mountain Project

Zion

Utah

Big-wall terrain in sandstone: walls around 600 m high, mostly long trad and aid routes; sport climbing and top-roping are rare inside the park. Day climbs need no permit, overnight bivouacs do. The windows are March to May and September to early November; wet desert sandstone is heavily weakened, so wait at least two days after rain.

Sources: National Park Service — Zion National Park, National Park Service — Zion National Park, US National Park Service

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