Ice Climbing — Glossary

Every Ice Climbing term explained in plain language: technique, equipment, rules and slang – with tips on avoiding the classic mistakes.

Beta (Slang)

The solution to a boulder or route — which holds, which sequence, which body position.

Crux (Slang)

The hardest section of a route or boulder — it usually determines the whole grade.

Downturn (Climbing Shoe) (Equipment)

The downward-curved shape of aggressive climbing shoes, concentrating pressure on the toe.

Dyno (Movement)

A dynamic jump on the wall where all four points of contact briefly leave the rock.

Flash, Onsight & Redpoint (Rule)

The three ascent styles: onsight first try with no prior information, flash first try with beta, redpoint after practice.

Fontainebleau Scale (Fb) (Rule)

The bouldering grade scale common in Europe: from 3 through 6A up to 9A today, with A, B and C sub-steps.

Front-pointing (Movement)

The steep-ice footwork: from roughly 45 degrees upwards you kick the two front points in once, precisely, then leave that foot alone. On easier ground, flat-footing saves your calves.

Heel Hook (Movement)

A climbing technique hooking your heel onto a hold to pull your hips close to the wall.

Smearing (Movement)

Standing on featureless rock through friction alone, with no actual hold — placing as much sole as possible.

Tap test (listening to the ice) (Cheat code)

A five-second habit before every move: tap the placement once before committing your full weight. A dull thunk means solid, a hollow ring means air behind it — route around those spots.

General

Terms from training theory that apply in every sport.

1RM (One-Repetition Maximum) (Rule)

The maximum weight you can move for exactly one clean repetition. The reference value behind almost every training plan.

BMR & TDEE (Rule)

BMR is your basal metabolic rate at complete rest; TDEE is total daily expenditure including everyday movement and training. Nutrition targets always work off TDEE.

Cadence (Movement)

Steps per minute when running, or pedal revolutions when cycling. For most runners, 170–180 steps per minute sits in the sweet spot.

Core Tension (Movement)

Active stabilisation of abdomen, back and pelvis — the bridge that lets force travel between legs and arms at all.

Deload (Cheat code)

A deliberately lighter week with volume or intensity clearly reduced, so adaptation can catch up.

DOMS (Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness) (Cheat code)

Delayed muscle soreness 12–72 hours after unfamiliar load. Not a measure of training quality.

Knee Valgus (Movement)

The knees collapsing inward during squats, jumps and landings. One of the key risk markers in technique analysis.

Progressive Overload (Cheat code)

The one principle no training works without long-term: the stimulus has to grow over time, otherwise adaptation stops.

RIR (Reps in Reserve) (Rule)

How many clean reps you had left at the end of a set. RIR 2 means two more were available.

RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion) (Rule)

A scale for perceived effort. In strength training it usually runs 1–10, where RPE 8 means you had two more reps in the tank.

Zone 2 (Aerobic Base) (Cheat code)

The easy endurance zone where you can still hold a conversation in full sentences. The base of almost every endurance plan.