Big Wave — Glossary

Every Big Wave term explained in plain language: technique, equipment, rules and slang – with tips on avoiding the classic mistakes.

Board Volume (Litres) (Equipment)

A board's volume in litres — the most meaningful number when buying, because it drives buoyancy and therefore how many waves you catch.

Bottom Turn (Movement)

The first turn at the bottom of the wave after the take-off. It sets the speed and line for everything that follows.

Drop-In (Rule)

In surfing, the right-of-way violation of taking off on a wave someone is already riding. In skateboarding, dropping into a ramp from the coping.

Duck Dive (Movement)

Pushing your board under a breaking wave to pass beneath it instead of being thrown back.

Goofy & Regular (Slang)

Your stance on the board: regular rides left foot forward, goofy right foot forward. Neither is better.

Gun (Big-Wave Board) (Equipment)

The narrow, pin-nosed specialist board for big waves, usually 2.30 to 3 metres long. Built to paddle in early at high wave speed, not to manoeuvre.

Hawaiian Scale (Rule)

The Hawaiian way of calling wave size: the number describes the back of the wave, roughly half the real face. Multiply the Hawaiian number by two to get an approximate face height.

Hold-down (Slang)

When a broken wave holds you under until it has passed. If the next wave in the set reaches you before you surface, the scene calls it a two- or three-wave hold-down.

Line-Up (Slang)

The area beyond the break where surfers wait for waves — and the social space where the spot's rules apply.

Pop-Up (Take-off) (Movement)

The move from lying to standing on the board — one single flowing motion while the wave already carries you.

Priority / Right of Way (Rule)

The most important rule in the water: whoever is closest to the breaking part of the wave has right of way.

Pumping (Foiling) (Cheat code)

A rhythmic up-and-down movement of your own body weight that generates fresh lift — with no wave, sail or kite involved. When you lose speed you reduce the load instead of pressing down.

Set (Wave Set) (Slang)

Waves almost never arrive alone but in groups of roughly three to six — a set — followed by a calmer lull. That lull is your window for paddling out.

Turtle Roll (Movement)

Instead of pushing the board under the wave, you roll yourself and the board around its long axis and let the wave pass over both of you. The answer for boards with too much volume to duck dive.

General

Terms from training theory that apply in every sport.

1RM (One-Repetition Maximum) (Rule)

The maximum weight you can move for exactly one clean repetition. The reference value behind almost every training plan.

BMR & TDEE (Rule)

BMR is your basal metabolic rate at complete rest; TDEE is total daily expenditure including everyday movement and training. Nutrition targets always work off TDEE.

Cadence (Movement)

Steps per minute when running, or pedal revolutions when cycling. For most runners, 170–180 steps per minute sits in the sweet spot.

Core Tension (Movement)

Active stabilisation of abdomen, back and pelvis — the bridge that lets force travel between legs and arms at all.

Deload (Cheat code)

A deliberately lighter week with volume or intensity clearly reduced, so adaptation can catch up.

DOMS (Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness) (Cheat code)

Delayed muscle soreness 12–72 hours after unfamiliar load. Not a measure of training quality.

Knee Valgus (Movement)

The knees collapsing inward during squats, jumps and landings. One of the key risk markers in technique analysis.

Progressive Overload (Cheat code)

The one principle no training works without long-term: the stimulus has to grow over time, otherwise adaptation stops.

RIR (Reps in Reserve) (Rule)

How many clean reps you had left at the end of a set. RIR 2 means two more were available.

RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion) (Rule)

A scale for perceived effort. In strength training it usually runs 1–10, where RPE 8 means you had two more reps in the tank.

Zone 2 (Aerobic Base) (Cheat code)

The easy endurance zone where you can still hold a conversation in full sentences. The base of almost every endurance plan.